Return to Rome

Spruced up Trevi Fountain

Spruced up Trevi Fountain

Almost everyone who visits Italy for the first time includes Rome in their itinerary. We give ourselves three or four days to see the most important sights and we leave the city exhausted and overwhelmed by all of the history and art (and food) we’ve consumed in too short a time.

Steps to Quirinal Park

Steps to Quirinal Park

Hopefully you’ll have a chance to return to Rome. When you visit the eternal city again, you can move beyond the crowded and touristy areas and savor more of the smaller gems of this amazing city. Once you’ve gone where the guide books say to go, you can now choose your own path—hopefully, with a slower pace. We’ve been lucky enough to return to Rome several times and we still are amazed at what we discover. Next time you venture to Rome, you might consider these other options.

 

 

Walk The Via Appia—The Appian Way

Appian Road

Appian Road

Sunday is the best day to take a walk along the Appian Way and explore some of the ruined villas or the Catacombs. This amazing archeological park stretches south from Circus Maximus for several miles. We took a bus (#118) and got off at the Catacombs of San Callisto. From there it’s a pleasant walk to see the Tomb of Cecilia Metella and several ruins of villas. We found a small tourist information office at Capo di Bove, where we got a simple map of the area. You can also rent bikes, which will get you further, but the roads are quite bumpy in sections.

 

 

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Lucca Side Trips

RianaFiat - 1

Most towns in Italy are conveniently connected by an efficient rail or bus system, which makes it easy to select a base town for your visit. We chose to stay in Lucca because it has a wide variety of both train and bus connections. This made it easy to plan side trips to the Ligurian Coast as well as short day trips to the towns and countryside nearby. Here are just a few of the options you might consider.

Pisa's popular Tower

Pisa’s popular Tower

Pisa

The bus to Pisa is often the quickest way to reach this popular town. If you need to get to the airport in Pisa, the bus is very convenient because it actually stops right at the airport terminal. However, the train is also a nice way to visit Pisa from Lucca. Although the tower and Campo dei Miracoli are impressive, don’t miss the pleasant old city center. Give yourself time to wander the streets to discover the lovely architecture of the old university and the renaissance palaces. This busy university town is a fun place to enjoy lunch or an aperativo in the late afternoon.

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Lovely Lucca

Tower View of Lucca

Tower View of Lucca

One of my favorite ways to experience Italy is to choose a town and stay for awhile. There are many advantages to staying in one place for more than a few days. First, you can save money by renting an apartment by the week. Even a B&B or hotel will usually give you a better price for a longer stay—four days or more.

Piazza San Frediano

Piazza San Frediano

With Italy’s convenient train system, it’s easy to get to other interesting destinations—without the hassle of taking your luggage. Also, you will get to know a town better and you won’t have the stress of trying to navigate a new city (along with your luggage) every few days. When you return to your “home town”, you know where to find your favorite barrista, the neighborhood store, a tasty pasticerria and your lodgings.

The town of Lucca, about halfway between Pisa & Florence, makes a great base for exploring Tuscany. It’s also not that far from the Ligurian Coast, where you can find the popular Cinque Terre towns or Portofino. There’s even some excellent hiking in the nearby Apuan Alps or on the Via Francigena Trail.

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Hiking Near the Cinque Terre

Levanto Trail

Levanto Trail

On the Ligurian Coast between Genoa and Pisa there are many scenic towns and villages. But the most popular destination seems to be the Cinque Terre—five picturesque hill towns that are all part of the Cinque Terre National Park. These colorful villages surrounded by terraced vineyards and olive orchards are all connected by a series of walking trails that meander up and down the verdant hills and finish in one of the charming towns.

Crowds on the Vernazza Trail

Crowds on the Vernazza Trail

Due to the devastating floods of 2011, three of the five trails along the coastline are still closed. This has made the two coastal trails quite quite crowded and popular—the one between Monterosso and Vernazza and the trail that continues from Vernazza to Corniglia. Even in late September, 2015, we found this area just a bit too crowded for our comfort.

The solution for us was the very scenic hike from the town of Levanto heading south to Monterosso, trail #1 & #10  of the Parco Regionale Bracco-Mesco.

 

 

 

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September in the Aosta Valley

Piazza Chanoux in Aosta

Piazza Chanoux in Aosta

For this trip to Italy, we decided to visit Aosta Valley—the smallest of Italy’s twenty regions. This beautiful valley, in the northwest corner of Italy is bordered by the French & Swiss Alps in the north and the scenic Gran Paradiso Park in the south. We based ourselves in the town of Aosta so we could do some day hikes and learn about the area.

Gran Paradiso

Gran Paradiso

There are several advantages to visiting Aosta Valley in the fall. First, there are very few tourists and the trails and towns are uncrowded. Second, the weather can be perfect for hiking, with highs in the low 70’s (Fahrenheit) in the valleys and low 60’s in the higher areas. But because this is between seasons, most of the lifts and funiculars are closed, along with the rifugios that serve food and other refreshments. This limits where you can go and what you can see.

If you don’t speak Italian, you can also try French. Both of these are the official languages of the region. But since the valley is a popular tourist destination, you’ll find many people who speak English.

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Back to Bella Italia

Aosta Cathedral

Aosta Cathedral

I’ve taken a bit of a break from writing while enjoying a lovely summer in the Pacific Northwest of America. But finally, we are traveling again and exploring new regions of Italy. Our first stop is the Valle d’Aosta, a region in the Western Alps just below France and Switzerland, and just north of Turin.

View from Aosta City Gate

View from Aosta City Gate

We chose the pleasant town of Aosta as our base for hiking the many trails available in this area. From this historic town, we have a choice of several valleys with excellent hiking trails. Many offer views of some of the highest peaks in Europe, including Mont Blanc and Monte Cervino (also known as the Matterhorn). It’s also not far to drive a bit south to explore Gran Paradiso, Italy’s first National Park.

The mountains are so close, we just had to take a short day hike.

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A New Trail in Sonoma

Montini Ranch Trail

Montini Ranch Trail

Sonoma, California—one of my favorite small towns—is just one hour northeast of San Francisco. Located in the wine country, near its famous neighbor, Napa, low-key Sonoma is a popular destination for wine aficionados and city folks looking for a weekend get away.

Sonoma Plaza & Park

Sonoma Plaza & Park

Unlike many cities in the U.S., Sonoma has a piazza, or what we call “The Plaza”, due to our Spanish roots. It’s fun to explore the small shops, tasting rooms and restaurants that surround the square. But when the sun’s out, head for the park with your picnic lunch and a bottle of wine (which is legal to consume openly here in the wine country). If you happen to visit on a Tuesday, there’s a great Farmers’ Market in the early evening. Many weekends, the Plaza hosts a variety of special events, such as the Plein Air Festival and wine tastings. This is also where you’ll find the Visitor’s Center with much more information about the area.

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