A dramatic name for a great hike on the Amalfi Coast… You can start this famous and scenic hike from several towns near Amalfi. Some people start in Praiano, on the coast or you can take a bus up to the hill towns to start from a higher elevation. For our hike, we chose the route that starts in the hill town of Bomerano and ends in the colorful town of Positano, on the coast. Even on a weekday in mid-April, we had about a dozen of us on the bus to Bomerano.
From the bus stop, we walked left, and within a few blocks there was a good sign with descriptions of various walks and the approximate distance and times. We chose the Sentieri Degli Dei, which was supposed to take four hours. But, the times can vary a lot depending on how you end the hike. There’s an option to stop in the town of Nocelle, have a relaxing lunch and then take the bus the rest of the way. But the walk down (many stairs) to Positano was highly recommended.
Early on the Trail
As we began our hike, the original group quickly spread out and we were by ourselves for most of the hike. This part of the trail starts up high and hugs the hills as it gently descends towards the coast. The trail is well cared for and has adequate signage, if you know what to look for. This trail has a number, but more often you see the two short painted lines on rocks(red & white). The Bomerano to Positano hike provides constant views of the amazing coastline and let’s you finish at the sea. Most of the time, you are hiking paths that have full sun exposure, so water is advised. But the trail leads back into a few shady areas that should be a welcome relief in the summertime. As we made our way north, it wasn’t long before we had magnificent views of the rugged coastline — all the way to the island of Capri. We looked for the shepards and their sheep, but we only saw a few goats and plenty of colorful lizards.
Looking North towards Sorrento
It only took us two hours to get to Nocelle, and that included pausing to take plenty of pictures. We missed the turn for the restaurant, and Bob is always opposed to back-tracking, so we decided to continue on to the town of Montepertuso. There was a sign that said it was several hours, but the way we went, it was only one. Part of the trail was closed (near the town), but the road was quiet as we entered the town.
By this time, we were ready for lunch, so we stopped at the first restaurant that had some activity. Il Ritrovo turned out to be an excellent choice. One large table had a hiking group with their guide, so that was a good sign. There was also a pleasant, covered balcony with views of the town, and the sea in the distance.
We started with some melon & prosciutto, and it was excellent. But they also brought us their complementary bruschetta, which was really good. The bread on the Amalfi Coast has been great,everywhere. We each chose a homemade pasta dish—Bob got a creamy dish with walnuts and I chose one with fresh, local vegetables. The portions were generous and we were thoroughly satisfied and ready to finish the hike.
We decided against dessert, but they brought us a plate of small cookies, anyway. We had complimented them on the food, so the waiter gave us a packet of their bruschetta mix with the bill. It turns out that the chef is quite well-known and offers cooking classes in his kitchen.
Down to Positano
Luckily for us, the guide eating at our restaurant told us where to find the trail to Positano. A few blocks from the restaurant, on the main road, there’s a staircase on the left. It has a small, ceramic sign on the wall that says Positano, and nothing more. From this point on, the trail is a series of stairs leading straight down to the picturesque town of Positano. The stairs are wide and easy to navigate and the views are breathtaking. When we arrived at the small square on the upper part of town, there was a tiny granita stand selling the best lemon granita yet! After winding our way past the fancy shops and restaurants, we walked down to the beach and got our feet wet. It was a perfect ending for a perfect hike.